If you read or follow any polymer clay groups and forums, you’ll notice that one of the most common questions asked is “Which polymer clay sealer should I use?” Everyone has their favorite sealer, and the answers differ depending on your need and the availability of products where you live. But perhaps we’re asking the wrong question. I think the first question needs to be, “Do You Have to Seal Polymer Clay?”
Do you have to seal polymer clay?
- You don’t have to seal polymer clay. Baked polymer clay is durable plastic and therefore more durable than any sealer.
- Sealers and varnishes will not prevent breakage. If your projects are brittle, address your baking process.
- Use a varnish to protect fragile surface treatments such as chalk, pigment, or mica.
- Use a varnish to change the gloss level of your project.
- Many varnishes make polymer clay sticky. See here for more info.
- Spray varnishes are nearly always incompatible with polymer clay.
- For a glass-like finish on plain polymer clay, sanding and buffing is an excellent option.
When to Seal Polymer Clay
People often want to seal their polymer clay creations for protection against the elements or from damage during use. In most cases this is unnecessary. Once it’s been properly baked or cured, polymer clay becomes a durable solid plastic that is waterproof, shock resistant, and fairly tough. Because it’s such a durable material, it probably won’t surprise you to learn that it’s actually more durable than any sealer that you will put on it. Sealers, varnishes, and finishes do have their purpose, but bare clay itself does not need to be sealed for protection. Here are some reasons why you would want to seal polymer clay:
Protect Surface Treatments
When you embellish your polymer clay project with chalks, paints, mica powders, metallic pastes, or metal leaf, those treatments are sitting on the surface of the polymer clay and are not nearly as durable as the polymer clay itself. Projects using surface treatments must therefore be sealed for maximum durability. In the case of jewelry, the wearer must also be protected from any pigments, dyes, and mica coming off on their clothes or skin. If the project is purely decorative and will merely be sitting on a shelf, sealing is not imperative. But keep in mind that cleaning any accumulated dust would likely cause the surface treatments to be disturbed.
Polymer clay artists often use acrylic paint to color and embellish their projects. Does acrylic paint need to be sealed? Well, it depends. Paint used to antique a textured surface is mostly rubbed off and the remaining paint is fairly well protected down in the “nooks and crannies” of the piece. In that case, I would not seal it. But thin layers of acrylic paint can sometimes peel or scrape off or will come off if the piece is washed. In those cases, I would use a sealer. Even when the layer of paint is thick and strong, a sealer might give a brighter, more durable coating much in the same way that a clear coat is used over the colored paint on your car. You’re going to be the best judge for your own particular project.
Change the Gloss Level
Although different brands of clay have different native gloss levels, and the technique you use can leave you with a matte or glossy surface, the easiest way to change the gloss level of your finished piece is to use a sealer that has the desired type of gloss level. Many varnishes come in both glossy and matte varieties. Sometimes you will look at a finished piece and realize that you would like it better matte or glossy and choosing the correct varnish can easily give you the effect you want.
Ease of Cleaning
Polymer clay is not porous like wood or unglazed ceramic. It will not absorb and hold water. Polymer clay can, however, have fine pits on the surface, depending on the method you used to create the piece. Some clay brands, such as Sculpey III and Souffle, tend to have a surface that appears to be porous (this is also why those brands are so great for holding onto acrylic paint). Because of this, dirt and makeup may be difficult to remove from a piece without scrubbing with soap and water. This can also be a problem when the clay is created with a finely textured surface. Plus, sometimes the dyes in your makeup can permanently discolor light-colored clay beads. In these cases, sealing the clay makes sense.
Intensify Colors or Translucency
Just like a pebble dipped in water becomes more vivid and bright, a coat of sealer can make polymer clay appear more rich, deep, and colorful. This also holds true for translucent clays. They will appear even more translucent when a sealer is used on the surface.
When NOT to Seal Polymer Clay
Sealers and varnishes are wonderful tools to be used when the time is right. But there are reasons why trying to seal your project might not be a good idea. Here are a few reasons.
- Many sealers, varnishes, and coatings turn sticky or cloudy over time, ruining your project. What works for one person might very well not work for another. Unless you know how your chosen sealer is going to act, and unless you’re certain you need to be using a sealer in the first place, it might be better to reconsider. Always test some samples before using a sealer on something that’s irreplaceable.
- Because most polymer clay varnishes are, themselves, a kind of thin plastic coating, they can often be peeled from the project if you try hard enough. If the product will get lots of abuse, a varnish might not be strong enough.
- When making glass-like items, using a gloss sealer is not a substitute for creating a smooth item in the first place. Applying a glossy coat over the top of a project full of tool marks and fingerprints will just accentuate them rather than camouflage them, making your project look sloppy and unprofessional.
- Using a sealer on a highly textured item can go badly wrong. I remember waxing my dad’s pickup when I was about 10. I got wax on the black plastic trim. Of course, it turned white in the grooves. Bad memories! Polymer clay is no different. Wax is great for smooth surfaces, but it will collect in the small crevices of a textured item and look awful. Liquid varnish such as Varathane will also collect or pool in highly textured areas, leading to a look that very much wasn’t what you had in mind. You can seal textured items with a varnish, but you have to be careful in your application. Don’t just slather it on!
Use the Right Sealer for your Project
There are lots of types of polymer clay sealers and glazes. I use a different sealer depending on the effect I want to accomplish in my finished piece. There are many excellent varnishes, finishes, and sealers out there, and I haven’t tried them all by any means! But here are some tried and true sealers that I can heartily recommend.
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Glossy Sealers
Varathane is a brand name of polyurethane varnish available in the US. It has been a favorite varnish with polymer clay artists for many years. It does come in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin, but I find that even the satin is still pretty glossy. I wrote an article about Varathane describing why it’s my favorite sealer and giving sources (including non-US brands of polyurethane).
Pearl Ex Varnish is made by the same company as the well-known mica powders. But this is just a varnish. It works nicely on all brands of clay, but doesn’t give a super glossy finish.
Aleene’s Jewelry Pendant Gel is a glossy dimensional glaze that can be used on most clays, but avoid using it on Fimo as it can get sticky.
Epoxy Resin is a clear, thick coating that is gaining popularity among polymer clayers, for good reason. It is exceedingly strong and durable, more so than any other finish. But it has a long cure time, takes some practice to get used to using, and is known for causing swear words. But once you get the hang of it, it works very nicely. Favorite brands are ICE Resin, Envirotex Lite, and Magic Glos (a brand of UV-cure resin).
Kato Liquid Polyclay can be used as a sealer. Just brush or sponge on a thin coating and then cure in the oven. After oven curing, you can use a heat gun to further cure it to give a crystal-clear, glossy finish.
Matte Sealers
Translucent Liquid Sculpey is another brand of liquid clay but this has a matte finish when cured. To get this effect, use a cosmetic sponge to dab the TLS onto your piece, then oven cure. Do not cure with a heat gun or the effect won’t be matte.
Cernit Matte Varnish gives a nice, smooth, dry finish on all brands of clay. It’s not terribly matte, but does give a low-sheen satin finish that looks and feels great.
DuraClear Ultra Matte Varnish is a dead matte varnish that has no sheen at all. It performs beautifully on all brands of clay except for Kato.
For a Natural, Burnished Look
If you like the look and feel of polymer clay that’s been sanded to a very high grit and buffed, you will love the way that adding a coat of wax makes those pieces feel and look. Renaissance Wax is a favorite brand of high-quality wax that has a great marketing program and a price tag to match. Don’t get me wrong, I love Ren Wax. But want to know a secret? Paste Wax and Neutral shoe polish will work just the same and have a MUCH better price. Remember, wax doesn’t work well on items with a fine texture (such as when you use sandpaper or a sponge to disguise fingerprints). The wax will collect in the pits and look awful.
Sealers to Avoid
Just as there are good sealers on the market, there are also some bad ones. Keep in mind that many of these have been used by many people without any ill effects. But they are also known for having unsatisfactory results as well.
Future Floor Finish, which is now called Pledge Floor Care (and is very similar to the European product Klear) is a very clear, thin, watery finish that is a favorite of beginning polymer clay artists. It gives a nice glossy finish, dries clear, smells great, and is readily available. I used it when I first started and I don’t really have much bad to say about it, except that it’s not very durable. There are better options, such as any of the sealers I mentioned above. It’s still a good sealer for things that won’t get any wear, such as figurines and models. But for jewelry, it just dulls down way too fast.
Liquitex Varnish, which I have previously recommended, is an artist’s varnish that comes in gloss, matte, and satin finishes. My tests show, however, that it has lots of brush strokes, turns cloudy on dark colors, and is sticky on some brands of clay. There are better options, such as Varathane or Pearl Ex Varnish.
Dimensional glazes are thick, clear one-part glazes that can be applied thickly to create a glossy, glass-like finish. Some are better than others, but all of them can turn cloudy over time. I think that humidity is a factor. Some brands are Triple Thick, Diamond Glaze, Dimensional Magic, and Aleene’s Jewelry and Pendant Gel. I have found that all of them turn sticky on at least one brand of clay. Aleene’s did show good results on every clay besides Fimo, however, so you might try it. For every person who recommends Triple Thick, I read of another one who says it gets sticky or cloudy. And the reviews I’ve read of Dimensional Magic are sad. I don’t like reading of people’s projects being ruined by a material that was used properly! Success is just too variable with these glazes for me to recommend them universally, aside from Aleene’s.
Nail Polish is often recommended as a paint or glaze by articles in craft blogs. Almost always there will be tears later because the plasticizer in polymer clay softens the polish, making it turn gooey over time. That is, if it dries at all. The thing is, it can be rather hit and miss, perhaps due to the brand of clay or nail polish. It does work often enough that people not knowledgeable in polymer clay will not see what’s wrong with recommending it, and the next person isn’t so lucky! If I had a dollar for every email I answer on this one…
Oil-based Varnishes will often work on polymer clay but will yellow noticeably with time. Cindy Leitz tested Minwax oil-based polyurethane and found that there were no compatibility issues with polymer clay, but it did yellow. This is most noticeable on white clay, of course. Cindy’s result does show the value of testing and making samples. Don’t just randomly grab any can of varnish from the hardware store shelf.
Mod Podge is a glue and decoupage medium that crafters have relied on for working with paper for as long as I can remember. Craft blogs also sometimes recommended it as a sealer for polymer clay. Just don’t do it. No. Mod Podge is actually made from the same stuff as plain white glue. It’s not a real sealer. You wouldn’t coat your beads in glue, would you? Again, some people have good results with this. But for most of us Mod Podge gets sticky and cloudy in humidity. Just say no.
Spray sealers can also have unpredictable and disappointing results. Sometimes the finish never dries, other times it turns soft and sticky months later. It seems that the plasticizer in baked polymer clay can soften the spray varnish, so even a good trustworthy brand of liquid varnish might not work so well in the spray form on polymer clay. If you need a spray, do yourself a favor and order some PYM II. It’s one of the few sprays that I know of which is absolutely safe to use with polymer clay. Your mileage may vary, of course. I tested 10 different brands of spray sealers and found that only PYM had universally good results on all the brands of clay that I tried.
Sealing Myths
New clayers often assume that polymer clay needs to be sealed to protect it against water damage. Cured polymer clay is waterproof and does not need to be sealed against moisture. Most sealers are not fully waterproof (they’re merely water-resistant) and can be damaged by prolonged contact with moisture. (A quick wash is not usually a problem for a sealer, though.) If you’re using polymer clay to decorate the outside of drinking glasses, you do not need to seal the polymer clay to make it safe for washing. You do, of course, want to hand wash any decorated glassware, but that’s true for any hand-embellished glassware. Dishwashers can be pretty harsh.
If you’re making a polymer clay project for use in aquariums or outdoors, a sealer is not only unnecessary but will most often deteriorate well before the clay. Polymer clay is weatherproof and will not crumble or fall apart after exposure to the elements (see the picture of my hearts, below). But the color of some clays can fade in sunlight. I would like to say that a UV sealer will protect your work, but I do worry about the durability of the sealer itself in outdoor conditions.
Another myth is the belief that a sealer will protect a weak polymer clay sculpture against breakage. A coating of varnish or sealer will not make your piece stronger. It will not prevent pieces from breaking off. If small pieces such as ears or arms are not properly adhered in the first place, a coat of sealer will not help things stay in place. The first time the piece is dropped or roughly handled, the ears will snap right off. I suppose if you coated a piece in a thick layer of resin, it would offer structural support. But it would also look pretty gloppy.
Tests and Samples
Regardless of what anyone tells you, though, it’s always best to test any new materials or techniques yourself before you commit to using them with a large or special project that you have put a lot of time into. That way you find out about the problems before anything gets ruined. For instance, Varathane is a fantastic sealer. But you have to learn how to apply it without creating bubbles, and the best way to do that is to do some tests and see what works best for you. Each sealer that I do recommend will come with its own quirks and challenges. Testing and doing sample pieces will help you find the best ways to use them.
Also remember that if you’re selling your work to others, your reputation as an artist depends on the long-term quality of your work. You owe it to yourself and your customers to make sure any sealers you use will hold up over time. Here’s a great article by Staci Louise Smith about how important it is to test your jewelry before you sell it to a customer.
And now I have a favor to ask of you. If you’re reading groups and forums where beginners are dealing with the frustrations of a badly chosen sealer, would you mind pointing them to this post? Maybe we can get the word out there and prevent some sticky beads!
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301 thoughts on “Do You Have to Seal Polymer Clay?”
Hi! I’m a total beginner and I am making little fairy houses for some terrariums I made for Christmas gifts. I wanted them to be glossy. Sculpey is bad. The problem I’m running in to is that once it’s dried (for 2 days) and I put the piece in the terrarium, it immediately is wet again. Cloudy and if I touch the it, the glaze and the paint rub off. Trying to find something that works is killing my progress!! This article definitely helps!
Yes, humidity can be a real bear when it comes to sealers, glazes, and finishes. Try using a polyurethane finish, or an epoxy resin. You might have better results with those.
After reading the article , I came up with the idea to use the faded look for the idea of making people think that I’ve had that art for a long time. Like trying to get the cheeky look or is that the shabby? Anyways I’m going to do this both ways except for the sticky and cloudy part. My imagination does weird things some times.
Thought I would post on this excellent article in case someone could help me. I am looking to put a polymer sculpture INSIDE of an ice sculpture I’m working on. Ice blocks are formulated with a small amount of rubbing alcohol to help it remain clear.
Can anyone speculate as to whether I’m okay with using plain, unsealed, baked polymer if if I need to seal it?
Thank you!
Hi Meaghan, baked polymer clay is inert to both water and alcohol. Most sealers are dissolved by alcohol. So I would definitely NOT seal it. Sounds like a neat project. Have fun!
I have found most things I have tried to glaze my pieces have been a disaster! after some research plumped for the Judikins Diamond Glaze as it had some very good reviews. To begin with I thought my problem was solved. After a few days it was lovely and glossy and wonderfully hard. My products were stored ready to give away as occasion came up. I had a birthday eminent so got my lovely jewels out to pick one to find they had all turned sticky tacky and or dull in the 3 months or so tucked away. Mortified was I. I am going to have to try and fix them. I am now armed with this wonderful article and hopefully wont make the same mistake again. Thank you
That’s really a great article!
May I ask a questions? What are the types of pens i can use to draw on polymerclay?
As a matter of fact, I have written about that very subject here.
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I’ve bought a cellulose varnish spray at the craft/artstore, since I couldn’t find the pymII (I live in Belgium and went to one of the largest and they didn’t have it) so they gave me a cellulose varnish spray after I explain I have baked polymer clay with powder (mica & pastels) and brushing it wouldn’t be an option, because it will ruin the powder coating. I’m not sure if this is safe or not, I haven’t even got a clue if it is solvent based or water based, because the bottle doesn’t mention it. Can someone help me one this one? I haven’t used the bottle yet, so maybe I can still return it.
Did you see my article on spray varnishes? There are very few sprays that will work with polymer clay for the reason that they don’t seem to dry. The people in the craft store will not necessarily understand this and they’ll often recommend something that works great on paper or glass but not on polymer. I would try a sample on a piece of scrap clay. You’ll know in a couple of weeks if it worked or not. You can buy PYM II, a wonderful spray sealer from Happythings.eu in The Netherlands. Marja was recently able to import some of it for sale to EU customers. It is pricey, but quite worth it.
Hey Ginger, Thanks for the answer! Since I do have this bottle I guess I could try on pieces that were experiments anyway but haven’t been sealed yet. I had no idea how long I would have to wait to see if it’s okay or not, but two weeks is not very long, considering that the chances are that it might go wrong. I’ll try this and keep you updated. Thanks for the link to happythings.eu for the pym II, it’s very hard to find over here.
Hey Ginger, I promised to let you know how it went with the cellulose spray varnish and it turned out pretty good 🙂
They are completely dry, have a nice shine to it. I also tried scratching the surface with my fingernails and it didn’t loosen or chip of or anything.
I tried it on Fimo and a cheaper alternative from a local dollar store. They were already reasonably dry after one day, even though it has been rather humid these days, we had lots of rain. I must say the cheaper brand was drying a little bit faster than the Fimo.
So I’ll think I’ll use it for now, since I already own this spray bottle, maybe later I’ll consider the pym II later on.
Oh that’s excellent new! Do you happen to have the name of the spray? Others in Europe will be curious, I’m sure!
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I recently switched to Mod podge and have only had great experiences with it (so far), the only time I have noticed stickyness is when storing two things too close together after they have not long dried. I really love glossy finishes, if there is a better alternative I would love to try it. Is there any effects long term on sculptures coated in mod podge that you know of?
Mod Podge (the original kind) is merely white glue (like Elmer’s). It is not a durable or protective finish. It WILL get sticky in water or humidity. There are many better options, several of which I listed in the article. I would opt for Varathane as being the best for the most types of situations.
Great article with some other options i can try cause i have tried everything i could think of right now I use future and have key chains that i made that i have carried around with me for years on my purse and the shine still hasn’t worn off but would hate to run into that problem someday so may try other suggestions in this article. I have tried Varathane but i found it dried yellow maybe there is something i am doing wrong with it because i know others have used it and said it works great but for me it turns yellow.
If your Varathane turns yellow, I can suggest two things. One, that you’re not using exactly the same version of Varathane. Varathane is a brand name, so there are several varieties under the same name. The one most of us use can be seen in my Varathane article. Other varieties are an amber colored liquid that will appear yellow on white things, getting worse over time. The other possibility is that your brush has color on it from previous crafts. Even when I use a well-washed brush, sometimes color will bleed out into my Varathane because there are solvents (similar to alcohol) in the Varathane that color it. Happy Claying!
Hello Ginger Davis Allman
I was wondering if I can use your article in a beginners book I’m working on? When I read your article I thought it can take a place in me book plus the things you write about are amazing. Like I said before I would like to use your article in my beginners book. Most of what I read I never thought to do research on what are the most use for polymer clay and what not to use
Hi April, I’m happy to work with you in providing content for your book. However, I have a specific process for that kind of thing. Please contact me with your proposal and more information about your upcoming book. You can contact me through the contact form on my website. Thank you.
Your articles are super helpful and easy to follow! I’m interested in making my own plugs for gauged ears. I was wondering if you had any recommendations or info on what to do if I plan on painting and possibly putting some time of gloss on them as well. I couldn’t seem to find anything about contact with skin over a prolonged period of time. I understand the clay itself wouldn’t be harmful. Thanks in advance!
For best long term wear, I’d stick with using just clay to make your designs. No sealer or gloss is going to be as strong and durable as the clay itself. And also, you eliminate worries about long term contact of the sealer with skin.
Thank you very much! Do you know of any paint safe to use on sculpey without irritating skin or peeling off?
I was a future user till I also found it wore off too quickly. I love the high shine as I feel it makes my pieces look higher end. So I now use the varathane. I have always found that dipping my beads HOT out of the oven sorta cooks the finish onto the bead. I do small batches so they stay hot long enough to dip. With the varathane I do spend a little more time running a paper towel around the edges (where the toothpick meets the bead) to clear out the thick drips. Then after a few min I turn the bead over and reinsert the toothpick on the other side till it’s fully dried. This way no clumps dry attached to the bead and toothpick. Now I have a perfect bead and it does not peal. FYI…..I use only kato.
Thanks for all your tips !!!!! Check out my designs on my denae designs board. I think u can find me on Pinterest under sharon wisener.
I’m just starting with clay & your article simplified finishes for me. I’ve also started working with ice resin, so i’m glad that I can use it with the pmc. your article was straightforward & very easy to follow. thank you so much for all your hard work. Going to have fun making pmc pendants & beads with alcohol inks (I’m obsessed with them) & ice resin. Let’s go play!
Thanks! 🙂 Have fun!
Wow so informative. All I needed to know in one article, thanks so much. Im a big fan of polymer clays and love working with it. Fairy houses are my latest passion. Can’t wait to get my first emails from you!!
Thank you Tracey, and welcome!
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Best information I’ve found. I love your site. You give the most logical, detail, across the board explanatory information out of all of them. and I’ve been busy researching PMC.
Thank you! I do work hard to be as clear as I can. Enjoy!
Hello! I’ve just spent a lovely hour reading lots of your postings – thank you for putting all your knowledge out there! I’m eager to try some clay projects (I would love to make my Mum some coasters for her birthday). I have bought some Fimo Soft Polymer Modelling Moulding Clay in white and peach, some lovely looking Adirondack Alcohol Inks in nice greeny shades and a jar of Fimo Polymer Clay Water Based Gloss Varnish. I am now officially one of those “all the gear and no idea” girls 🙂
I’m just hoping you can help me with something. When I make my item, should I then bake/paint/varnish in that order? Or should I paint/bake/varnish… bake/varnish/paint/varnish….?! Any help would be hugely appreciated!
Oh wow, there are so many things you can do! The alcohol inks are going to be a little bit like painting with a dye as they’re totally transparent and quite intense. But if thinned with alcohol (or medical spirits) you can get a lovely light colored wash with them. They’re also fun when mixed into the raw clay to create a new color. You can use alcohol inks or paints on either baked or unbaked clay…each gives a different effect. There’s really no wrong way to go. Have a look on Pinterest to see if anything strikes your interest. Here’s my board for Inspiring Polymer Clay Designs and another board of Polymer Clay Tutorials. Have fun!
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I have a sinking feeling that I may have ruined all my fimo ornaments by spraying them with an oil based varnish. If they are going to go sticky, how long before it happens generally and is there anything I could do to stop it happening?
Some of the sprays do work, so if it’s not sticky now you have a good chance. Some people have reported that the finish suddenly turns sticky within about six months. Usually things are fine after that, if it makes it that far. Crossing fingers for you!
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I made a hand print plaque with sculpey oven bake clay then painted with acrylic paint. What kind of sealer should I use?
If the paint isn’t likely to scratch or peel off, then you shouldn’t have to use any sealer. If you do want to protect it even further, then Varathane or Minwax Polycrylic will do nicely.
“Oops!”…I also had forgotten to mention, that I have pails of Varathane in both Satin and Glossy. I used them to coat my painted sculpts made out of Ultralight. After about a year, I checked on them…They were beginning to become tacky too.
Now, I am not sure if the culprit is the acrylic paints I used, or the Supposedly good Varathane. I live in New England, so I do not think the climate has anything to do with it.
I used Liquitex brand Light bodied Acrylics, and Golden Brand Light bodied acrylics, when I am not using the Jaquard Brand Pearl-Ex pigments on a sculpt.
I am at a loss. (beginning to panic because some of my coated pieces have already been sold) D:
“Darnitt!” I recently invested in a couple of cases of the Sculpey brand glazes in both satin and glossy. I was hopeful that they would not become sticky because of the marketing of the product.
I have had problems in the past with sculpts I made using Pigments from Pearl-Ex, and then sealing them various sealants. I also have had surface tackiness with some Golden Brand acrylics. I use Sculpey Ultralight a lot, and then paint my pieces after baking. That is why I need a reliable sealant. I trusted that Sculpey Glaze would be the solution.
Now, what am I to do with all the jars I wasted my hard earned money on? Recent pieces I used it on seem okay at the moment…but what will happen in a few months?
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated,
🙁 Thanks.
I’ve never had Varathane get tacky, and this is the first I’ve heard of it happening, so I don’t really know what to say. As for the Sculpey Glaze, some people like it and I have heard that they’ve recently reformulated it. So it might be okay. If you change your mind and want to try something else, though, you could always sell your bottles on Ebay or on one of the many destash groups on Facebook.
*Wipes forehead*…”Goodness, I sure hope so.” I will have to coat a sample, and see what happens. I cannot do anything about the pieces I already sold, so…I pray that they will be alright.
I have been told that using Golden Brand Primer is supposed to help keep some of their acrylic colors from interacting badly with polymer clay. I wish I had know about it before I painted one of my Dragon sculpts in a base coat of Burnt Umber. The parts painted with that Golden brand color became tacky, while the painted parts done in Jacquard Brand Liquitex Pearl were fine. Now…that poor sculpt is sitting on my studio shelf with a plastic bag over it to keep all air particles from sticking to the Umber parts. I am fearful of making it worse. I do not want to throw it away.
The very same thing happened to a huge art doll I started with the Golden Brand Carbon Black acrylic paint. The Dragon was way too large to bag up, (not to mention the “wealth” of Swarovski Crystals set into it)…so he has a layer of dust, and other particles stuck to the painted parts. I had to suspend my work on that piece as well, because I have no idea how to safely remove all paint and start over. 🙁
I have links to images of the two projects I am referring to. If it can help you try to understand my predicament.
Dragon before painted with the Umber: https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/403647_2632255162691_685586828_n.jpg?oh=f81d5e75aa601f2929562267804f8aa2&oe=5530111C&__gda__=1429331541_395815b3579f6259c858a5e74f8eaf10
Dragon After painted with the offending paint: https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/425270_2632256122715_871420795_n.jpg?oh=59eee7afbb017233c74d6f9df3022f81&oe=552FD1DE&__gda__=1430555670_b9a142664079e99c33fd88f7cc301c03
Art Doll with Dust: https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/403611_2632319364296_1473154148_n.jpg?oh=314696d291ff3a0b099db5d62672f3fa&oe=5532BED8
This one is over 4 feet long!
Anyone….Please! …Help me! …I will hear any thoughts and suggestions. These pieces are too valuable to just give up on. (Big money in crystals, and gemstones were spent on them). 🙁
Any kind of a finish on polymer clay runs the risk of there being incompatibility reactions, unfortunatley, so the best thing you can do is test everything first. Like I’ve said before, water based Varathane is my go-to main choice, and it’s what I would suggest to cover your dragons to stabilize your tacky finish. But not without testing it first! Try some on a small area and see what happens. I’ve heard nothing but good about Golden, so I’m very surprised you’re having trouble. I’m sorry, I wish I had better answers for you. I do love your sculptures, though. They’re wonderful and so well done! Maybe a reader will will have some answers for you.
If I am using silver leaf on a somewhat textured surface to make a polymer clay “setting”
What would be the best sealant to use on top of that?
You could use any sealer or varnish. I prefer to use Varathane.
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