If you read or follow any polymer clay groups and forums, you’ll notice that one of the most common questions asked is “Which polymer clay sealer should I use?” Everyone has their favorite sealer, and the answers differ depending on your need and the availability of products where you live. But perhaps we’re asking the wrong question. I think the first question needs to be, “Do You Have to Seal Polymer Clay?”
Do you have to seal polymer clay?
- You don’t have to seal polymer clay. Baked polymer clay is durable plastic and therefore more durable than any sealer.
- Sealers and varnishes will not prevent breakage. If your projects are brittle, address your baking process.
- Use a varnish to protect fragile surface treatments such as chalk, pigment, or mica.
- Use a varnish to change the gloss level of your project.
- Many varnishes make polymer clay sticky. See here for more info.
- Spray varnishes are nearly always incompatible with polymer clay.
- For a glass-like finish on plain polymer clay, sanding and buffing is an excellent option.
When to Seal Polymer Clay
People often want to seal their polymer clay creations for protection against the elements or from damage during use. In most cases this is unnecessary. Once it’s been properly baked or cured, polymer clay becomes a durable solid plastic that is waterproof, shock resistant, and fairly tough. Because it’s such a durable material, it probably won’t surprise you to learn that it’s actually more durable than any sealer that you will put on it. Sealers, varnishes, and finishes do have their purpose, but bare clay itself does not need to be sealed for protection. Here are some reasons why you would want to seal polymer clay:
Protect Surface Treatments
When you embellish your polymer clay project with chalks, paints, mica powders, metallic pastes, or metal leaf, those treatments are sitting on the surface of the polymer clay and are not nearly as durable as the polymer clay itself. Projects using surface treatments must therefore be sealed for maximum durability. In the case of jewelry, the wearer must also be protected from any pigments, dyes, and mica coming off on their clothes or skin. If the project is purely decorative and will merely be sitting on a shelf, sealing is not imperative. But keep in mind that cleaning any accumulated dust would likely cause the surface treatments to be disturbed.
Polymer clay artists often use acrylic paint to color and embellish their projects. Does acrylic paint need to be sealed? Well, it depends. Paint used to antique a textured surface is mostly rubbed off and the remaining paint is fairly well protected down in the “nooks and crannies” of the piece. In that case, I would not seal it. But thin layers of acrylic paint can sometimes peel or scrape off or will come off if the piece is washed. In those cases, I would use a sealer. Even when the layer of paint is thick and strong, a sealer might give a brighter, more durable coating much in the same way that a clear coat is used over the colored paint on your car. You’re going to be the best judge for your own particular project.
Change the Gloss Level
Although different brands of clay have different native gloss levels, and the technique you use can leave you with a matte or glossy surface, the easiest way to change the gloss level of your finished piece is to use a sealer that has the desired type of gloss level. Many varnishes come in both glossy and matte varieties. Sometimes you will look at a finished piece and realize that you would like it better matte or glossy and choosing the correct varnish can easily give you the effect you want.
Ease of Cleaning
Polymer clay is not porous like wood or unglazed ceramic. It will not absorb and hold water. Polymer clay can, however, have fine pits on the surface, depending on the method you used to create the piece. Some clay brands, such as Sculpey III and Souffle, tend to have a surface that appears to be porous (this is also why those brands are so great for holding onto acrylic paint). Because of this, dirt and makeup may be difficult to remove from a piece without scrubbing with soap and water. This can also be a problem when the clay is created with a finely textured surface. Plus, sometimes the dyes in your makeup can permanently discolor light-colored clay beads. In these cases, sealing the clay makes sense.
Intensify Colors or Translucency
Just like a pebble dipped in water becomes more vivid and bright, a coat of sealer can make polymer clay appear more rich, deep, and colorful. This also holds true for translucent clays. They will appear even more translucent when a sealer is used on the surface.
When NOT to Seal Polymer Clay
Sealers and varnishes are wonderful tools to be used when the time is right. But there are reasons why trying to seal your project might not be a good idea. Here are a few reasons.
- Many sealers, varnishes, and coatings turn sticky or cloudy over time, ruining your project. What works for one person might very well not work for another. Unless you know how your chosen sealer is going to act, and unless you’re certain you need to be using a sealer in the first place, it might be better to reconsider. Always test some samples before using a sealer on something that’s irreplaceable.
- Because most polymer clay varnishes are, themselves, a kind of thin plastic coating, they can often be peeled from the project if you try hard enough. If the product will get lots of abuse, a varnish might not be strong enough.
- When making glass-like items, using a gloss sealer is not a substitute for creating a smooth item in the first place. Applying a glossy coat over the top of a project full of tool marks and fingerprints will just accentuate them rather than camouflage them, making your project look sloppy and unprofessional.
- Using a sealer on a highly textured item can go badly wrong. I remember waxing my dad’s pickup when I was about 10. I got wax on the black plastic trim. Of course, it turned white in the grooves. Bad memories! Polymer clay is no different. Wax is great for smooth surfaces, but it will collect in the small crevices of a textured item and look awful. Liquid varnish such as Varathane will also collect or pool in highly textured areas, leading to a look that very much wasn’t what you had in mind. You can seal textured items with a varnish, but you have to be careful in your application. Don’t just slather it on!
Use the Right Sealer for your Project
There are lots of types of polymer clay sealers and glazes. I use a different sealer depending on the effect I want to accomplish in my finished piece. There are many excellent varnishes, finishes, and sealers out there, and I haven’t tried them all by any means! But here are some tried and true sealers that I can heartily recommend.
Some of the links below support my work by earning an affiliate commission if you purchase using them. This is how it works.
Glossy Sealers
Varathane is a brand name of polyurethane varnish available in the US. It has been a favorite varnish with polymer clay artists for many years. It does come in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin, but I find that even the satin is still pretty glossy. I wrote an article about Varathane describing why it’s my favorite sealer and giving sources (including non-US brands of polyurethane).
Pearl Ex Varnish is made by the same company as the well-known mica powders. But this is just a varnish. It works nicely on all brands of clay, but doesn’t give a super glossy finish.
Aleene’s Jewelry Pendant Gel is a glossy dimensional glaze that can be used on most clays, but avoid using it on Fimo as it can get sticky.
Epoxy Resin is a clear, thick coating that is gaining popularity among polymer clayers, for good reason. It is exceedingly strong and durable, more so than any other finish. But it has a long cure time, takes some practice to get used to using, and is known for causing swear words. But once you get the hang of it, it works very nicely. Favorite brands are ICE Resin, Envirotex Lite, and Magic Glos (a brand of UV-cure resin).
Kato Liquid Polyclay can be used as a sealer. Just brush or sponge on a thin coating and then cure in the oven. After oven curing, you can use a heat gun to further cure it to give a crystal-clear, glossy finish.
Matte Sealers
Translucent Liquid Sculpey is another brand of liquid clay but this has a matte finish when cured. To get this effect, use a cosmetic sponge to dab the TLS onto your piece, then oven cure. Do not cure with a heat gun or the effect won’t be matte.
Cernit Matte Varnish gives a nice, smooth, dry finish on all brands of clay. It’s not terribly matte, but does give a low-sheen satin finish that looks and feels great.
DuraClear Ultra Matte Varnish is a dead matte varnish that has no sheen at all. It performs beautifully on all brands of clay except for Kato.
For a Natural, Burnished Look
If you like the look and feel of polymer clay that’s been sanded to a very high grit and buffed, you will love the way that adding a coat of wax makes those pieces feel and look. Renaissance Wax is a favorite brand of high-quality wax that has a great marketing program and a price tag to match. Don’t get me wrong, I love Ren Wax. But want to know a secret? Paste Wax and Neutral shoe polish will work just the same and have a MUCH better price. Remember, wax doesn’t work well on items with a fine texture (such as when you use sandpaper or a sponge to disguise fingerprints). The wax will collect in the pits and look awful.
Sealers to Avoid
Just as there are good sealers on the market, there are also some bad ones. Keep in mind that many of these have been used by many people without any ill effects. But they are also known for having unsatisfactory results as well.
Future Floor Finish, which is now called Pledge Floor Care (and is very similar to the European product Klear) is a very clear, thin, watery finish that is a favorite of beginning polymer clay artists. It gives a nice glossy finish, dries clear, smells great, and is readily available. I used it when I first started and I don’t really have much bad to say about it, except that it’s not very durable. There are better options, such as any of the sealers I mentioned above. It’s still a good sealer for things that won’t get any wear, such as figurines and models. But for jewelry, it just dulls down way too fast.
Liquitex Varnish, which I have previously recommended, is an artist’s varnish that comes in gloss, matte, and satin finishes. My tests show, however, that it has lots of brush strokes, turns cloudy on dark colors, and is sticky on some brands of clay. There are better options, such as Varathane or Pearl Ex Varnish.
Dimensional glazes are thick, clear one-part glazes that can be applied thickly to create a glossy, glass-like finish. Some are better than others, but all of them can turn cloudy over time. I think that humidity is a factor. Some brands are Triple Thick, Diamond Glaze, Dimensional Magic, and Aleene’s Jewelry and Pendant Gel. I have found that all of them turn sticky on at least one brand of clay. Aleene’s did show good results on every clay besides Fimo, however, so you might try it. For every person who recommends Triple Thick, I read of another one who says it gets sticky or cloudy. And the reviews I’ve read of Dimensional Magic are sad. I don’t like reading of people’s projects being ruined by a material that was used properly! Success is just too variable with these glazes for me to recommend them universally, aside from Aleene’s.
Nail Polish is often recommended as a paint or glaze by articles in craft blogs. Almost always there will be tears later because the plasticizer in polymer clay softens the polish, making it turn gooey over time. That is, if it dries at all. The thing is, it can be rather hit and miss, perhaps due to the brand of clay or nail polish. It does work often enough that people not knowledgeable in polymer clay will not see what’s wrong with recommending it, and the next person isn’t so lucky! If I had a dollar for every email I answer on this one…
Oil-based Varnishes will often work on polymer clay but will yellow noticeably with time. Cindy Leitz tested Minwax oil-based polyurethane and found that there were no compatibility issues with polymer clay, but it did yellow. This is most noticeable on white clay, of course. Cindy’s result does show the value of testing and making samples. Don’t just randomly grab any can of varnish from the hardware store shelf.
Mod Podge is a glue and decoupage medium that crafters have relied on for working with paper for as long as I can remember. Craft blogs also sometimes recommended it as a sealer for polymer clay. Just don’t do it. No. Mod Podge is actually made from the same stuff as plain white glue. It’s not a real sealer. You wouldn’t coat your beads in glue, would you? Again, some people have good results with this. But for most of us Mod Podge gets sticky and cloudy in humidity. Just say no.
Spray sealers can also have unpredictable and disappointing results. Sometimes the finish never dries, other times it turns soft and sticky months later. It seems that the plasticizer in baked polymer clay can soften the spray varnish, so even a good trustworthy brand of liquid varnish might not work so well in the spray form on polymer clay. If you need a spray, do yourself a favor and order some PYM II. It’s one of the few sprays that I know of which is absolutely safe to use with polymer clay. Your mileage may vary, of course. I tested 10 different brands of spray sealers and found that only PYM had universally good results on all the brands of clay that I tried.
Sealing Myths
New clayers often assume that polymer clay needs to be sealed to protect it against water damage. Cured polymer clay is waterproof and does not need to be sealed against moisture. Most sealers are not fully waterproof (they’re merely water-resistant) and can be damaged by prolonged contact with moisture. (A quick wash is not usually a problem for a sealer, though.) If you’re using polymer clay to decorate the outside of drinking glasses, you do not need to seal the polymer clay to make it safe for washing. You do, of course, want to hand wash any decorated glassware, but that’s true for any hand-embellished glassware. Dishwashers can be pretty harsh.
If you’re making a polymer clay project for use in aquariums or outdoors, a sealer is not only unnecessary but will most often deteriorate well before the clay. Polymer clay is weatherproof and will not crumble or fall apart after exposure to the elements (see the picture of my hearts, below). But the color of some clays can fade in sunlight. I would like to say that a UV sealer will protect your work, but I do worry about the durability of the sealer itself in outdoor conditions.
Another myth is the belief that a sealer will protect a weak polymer clay sculpture against breakage. A coating of varnish or sealer will not make your piece stronger. It will not prevent pieces from breaking off. If small pieces such as ears or arms are not properly adhered in the first place, a coat of sealer will not help things stay in place. The first time the piece is dropped or roughly handled, the ears will snap right off. I suppose if you coated a piece in a thick layer of resin, it would offer structural support. But it would also look pretty gloppy.
Tests and Samples
Regardless of what anyone tells you, though, it’s always best to test any new materials or techniques yourself before you commit to using them with a large or special project that you have put a lot of time into. That way you find out about the problems before anything gets ruined. For instance, Varathane is a fantastic sealer. But you have to learn how to apply it without creating bubbles, and the best way to do that is to do some tests and see what works best for you. Each sealer that I do recommend will come with its own quirks and challenges. Testing and doing sample pieces will help you find the best ways to use them.
Also remember that if you’re selling your work to others, your reputation as an artist depends on the long-term quality of your work. You owe it to yourself and your customers to make sure any sealers you use will hold up over time. Here’s a great article by Staci Louise Smith about how important it is to test your jewelry before you sell it to a customer.
And now I have a favor to ask of you. If you’re reading groups and forums where beginners are dealing with the frustrations of a badly chosen sealer, would you mind pointing them to this post? Maybe we can get the word out there and prevent some sticky beads!
Email is the best way
to get updates
You will LOVE getting this email, which is packed full of polymer clay goodness. About once or twice a month.
301 thoughts on “Do You Have to Seal Polymer Clay?”
Oh Ginger, do you have a link to a website or can tell us where to purchase PYM II ? Thank you, sounds like an excellent product and one I need in my Art Studio! 🙂
I thought I linked to the PYM II suppliers in the article I wrote on PYM II. In the US, I love going to Poly Clay Play.
Extremely helpful advice!!! I do have a question, do you have to seal the cured polymer clay before you place the ornament in water like a pond, or a snowglobe? Some clay like sculpey III is still a little porous even after it’s been cured. I think it soaks in the water a little bit in my snowglobes. I know cured polymer clay is water resistant, but can it be submerged in water for long periods of time like years and doesn’t get mushy or fall apart, say in aquariums or snowglobes?
I have not tried it myself, but I’ve been told that polymer clay is just fine for aquarium use. I wouldn’t use Sculpey III…I know what you mean about it being sort of “porous”. I would use a clay like Kato or Premo.
Thank you so much for this, Ginger! I always find your blogs really helpful – and this is EXACTLY the info I was looking for. Great job! 🙂
If I’ve asked you this before, I apologize, but I’m going to ask anyway. I’ve had a bunch of designs for polymer clay soap dishes in mind to complement the handmade soap I make and sell at a local farmers market. Do you recommend sealing the finished pieces with a waterproof, marine-type varnish or do you think they’ll hold up to holding wet soap without a sealer? I’d love to not have to seal them … what are you thoughts? I asked a clay manufacturer and that’s where I got the marine varnish recommendation.
I have a soap dish in my shower. It’s been there for 8 or so years. Every few months I scrub the soap scum off it. It has absolutely no wear, no mildew, no breakdown. There is no reason whatsoever to have a sealer on it. It is made from just plain clay, though. The only reason you would ever want to seal polymer clay for a soapdish would be if you used paint, mica powder, foils, chalks, or other surface treatments. If it’s just clay it doesn’t need one. Of course, if you needed to use a sealer, a marine grade varnish is one to think about. But then you’re into the oil based varnishes, I believe, and they might not dry properly on clay. I’d stick with plain clay (use mokume gane, canes, any kind of patterns), but skip the surface treatments. Then you eliminate the whole question of what varnish to use.
Thanks Ginger – When I originally had the idea for these soap dishes, I didn’t think I’d need a sealer because the clay is just essentially plastic, so I thought maybe I wasn’t thinking through something or didn’t know something about the clay (both entirely possible). And I was surprised when the manufacturer recommended an oil-based sealer, just for the drying reasons you mentioned. Of course the right thing to do would have been to make a soap dish prototype when I had the idea years ago and to keep it my bathroom to see how it wears. But it appears you’ve already done that homework for me – thanks! And seriously, thanks so much for ALL of your informative articles about polymer clay. I read them all and I appreciate each and every one of them. There’s still so much to learn …
I used to do customer service for a mail order company and one of my challenges was answering questions about products that I didn’t really understand how to use. I suspect that’s a challenge for the people answering questions for the manufacturers as well. Who knows what experience that person had with polymer? Oh well. I’m glad you asked the question. Let me know how it goes, I’m curious.
Doreen Gay-Kassel paints all her wonderful pieces with oil paint. It more vibrant than water based paints and is quite compatible with polymer clay.
Good point. I’m learning that it’s not so much oil based as it is some solvents and some clays. Artist’s oil paints are perfectly safe on polymer clay. And there is a brand of heat-set oil paints, called Genesis, that are well-known for being fabulous with polymer. But in general, oil based house paints and varnishes aren’t so good. And you’re right, oil likely doesn’t have much to do with it. Thanks for the clarification.
Thank you for this article! I’m saving it for future reference. It affirms my decision years ago to only buff the handles on my utensils.
Good decision! And isn’t it surprising how well the clay holds up? Love your name, by the way, it’s the same as my mamma’s!
I found this article very informative and interesting…..truly appreciated this info. I am going
to give the neutral shoe polish a try. I am a newbie to your site.
Welcome Marilyn! Let me know what you think of it. If you’ve not used wax on polymer before, you’re in for a treat. Gives such a nice, warm glow.
Ginger, thank you so much for taking the time to write such a thorough article on the sealer issue. Perhaps you were motivated by a recent thread about this very topic where Future floor polish was getting lots of attention. This is such a useful and honest review of the products that we’ve tried or had on the list to try – many now being crossed OFF the list :).
One of the challenges I face is finding a good sealer that works well on surface treatments where the piece is curved/curvy (i.e. not flat). I love resin, but these types of pieces really work best with a spray-on treatment, so it’s great to know about PYM II.
Also, I recently purchased a can of Minwax Finishing Paste for some furniture I refinished, so it’s still available on the market!
Thank you, again, Ginger! This is wonderful and I’ve emailed myself the link for my files and future reference where I’m sure it get plenty of use.
Could be. Future has its rabid fans, and I was expecting some backlash about my stance on it, actually. It’s a nice “newbie” gloss that is great if you have it on your shelf already. But I see people mail ordering it. And if you’re gonna do that, get better varnish, IMHO. It’s good to know about Minwax Paste. I have such an old can…truly vintage. That stuff just doesn’t get old!
Another wonderful article. I learned a few new facts. I love how you explain the reason why. As a scientist, this is right up my alley.
Good, I’m glad it was helpful. And yes, the scientist’s mind is one that needs to know why. Why, why, why!!! It’s a curse, but it sure makes life more interesting.
Fabulous article (as usual!) Thanks so much for sharing it.
Aw thanks, Anita. I know you’re a Varathane fan like me, and your article is still one that I refer people to all the time.
Thank you, Ginger for yet another informative article, I wonder when we clayers in the UK will be able to buy PYMII? I have tried several alternatives but none as yet is perfect.
Insider information…there is someone working on it. Your wait will be over soon. 🙂
Thank you, Ginger – another excellent article.
Thanks Carrie. And let me know if you have any more thoughts about the Liquitex varnish you used. Like if it gets sticky over time.
Thanks for this well researched article Ginger – I had to bin three very pretty pendants the other day because I used sculpey glaze on them years ago and then overcoated them with Liquitex after they showed stickyness. These pieces also had a layer of liquid Fimo – I learnt the hard way that you can’t really coat varnish over liquid Fimo. The stickyness remained – I also tried rebaking them with no good results. I found Liquitex Gloss seems to work fine with Premo, but have now discovered a couple of Fimo pieces covered with Liquitex gone slightly sticky – and I assume it could be due to the brand. Very frustrating. Fimo Varnish tends to peel off, but I heard that if you bake it for 5 mins it stays on.
I have now created lots of tiles with various varnishes (still have to sort out the Golden Varnish) and left them all in grip seal bags to see how they react in 6 months time.
Unfortunately you can’t buy PYM in the UK, the closest I got to PYM is a German product recommended by Bettina Welker. Downside with sprays is – they stink and you better use them outside, but the upside is you can avoid brush strokes and bubbles.
I love surface techniques and therefore finding the best varnish is essential.
Haven’t tested Darwi – the price has put me off a bit.
I know you’ve been struggling with sealers, Helen, and the discussions we’ve had are one of the reasons I wanted to write all this down. Many varnishes will set better if you bake them on, so you could always try that. And what is that German product that Bettina recommends? Not that I could get it here, LOL, but I’d love to know what it is. Darwi is great, but it is a tiny little bottle and it goes on thick, so it won’t last long. If you’re up for some more experiments, though, you could try the Ronseal polyurethane that I saw last month in Homebase. I’d love to know if it works as well as Varathane. And good news, there is a supplier in the EU about to get their shipment of PYM II. I’ll share that when it happens!
Great thank you
Glad it was helpful. 🙂
Thanks for a great article. Even though we cannot get many of the products here in Australia, it is god to know what to avoid and also know how the products we do get here react over time.
In Australia, you can always ask Dani at The Whimsical Bead for advice. She’ll know the best products that are available there. And there is a Varathane alternative, too. Check the bottom of the article here.
Wow, as usual, great article!!!
I’ve used Varathane for years. I usually put on at least 3 coats, preferably 5, waiting for each coat to dry before the applying the next. Recently, I started using Triple Thick and so far results are good.
If you have the patience to deal with epoxy resin, in my opinion, it gives the best and hardest finish. Use it after the clay has been baked, of course.
Oh yes, that’s why I said resin is swear-worthy. In fact, I used it yesterday for something and later in the evening noticed a stiff spot on my clothes. Sure enough…I had a blob on my skirt. It just gets everywhere. #&%*#@&!!!!
Hi, Ginger. I’ve had good results (so far) with 3-D Crystal Lacquer (www.sakuracraft.com) which is a water-based, acid free, non-toxic lacquer. A thin coat dries in 30-45 minutes, bubbles are pretty easy to avoid and remove. It might be something for you to check out at some point, although it seems to me that you’re already busier than anyone I’ve ever known. I have some pieces that are approaching the two-year stage, I think, with no yellowing or such as yet, but time will tell. Sometimes I get some running of a laser-transfer with the 3-D, but not if I just drip it on, rather than brushing. I use Varathane more than anything else.
Thanks Karen, I’ll put that one on my list to look for. It’s good to have more alternatives, especially for those outside of the US. Do you get it in Germany?
No, I actually brought it back from the USA, like the Varathane.
Awesome article.. thanks.
🙂
Thank you! If I could just remember all this!
And I’ve had all this in my head! Now you know why I wanted to write it all down!
Once again another wonderful article. I, like you, highly recommend Varathane. It is my favorite. I really want to try out the Matte Golden though… One day! Thanks Ginger. You rock!
I haven’t played with it very much yet, but it’s enough to know that all the good press it’s getting is very correct. Definitely worth a place in your next order from Blick.
Wonderful article. But the Golden Varnishes should NOT be used to protect metal leaf details on polymer clay. It just sucks the color and shine out of any composition, variegated or imitative silver or gold leaf.
I think that the culprit is water. So use Pym II or another product that does not have to be thinned with H20 in this case.
What the heck, save yourself all sorts of pain, just use real silver and gold. Of course your wallet will be screaming but who listens anymore. Mine’s always grumbling about something.
Ah, that is really good to know. I have used Varathane with no ill effects (and it has water), so there might be more going on. I’ll keep an eye on that. And…when I get around to testing these in a side-by-side comparison, I’ll add metal leaf to the roster of tests. Thanks for the input. And gee…your wallet sounds like mine. Real leaf indeed!
“[resin] is known for causing swear words.” No poo? Who’da thunk it?
😀
(I can confirm that I made up 32 brand new portmanteau swear words the first time I tried to use resin with clay!)
I’d like to mention that after curing clay coated in Kato Liquid Polyclay, when you buff it, it shines like a mother! Problem is I can’t *ever* get that stuff to go on smoothly. My air is apparently filled with buttloads of dust, so no matter how carefully I apply it, it’s very, very gently lumpy, so after curing, I sand it with very fine (600-800) sandpaper and then buff it on the benchgrinder. It’s glassier than glass!
Your air is like my air. Dusty. I have never tried buffing it. The clay, I mean, not the dusty air. I will do that. Learn something new everyday!!
Awesome article. Can you use Kato Liquid Polyclay over clay products from other manufacturers? I use Premo.
Absolutely! With polymer clay you don’t have to limit yourself to brand. The clay is mixable, and you can pretty much use the liquid clays interchangeably.
Another great, informative article. I love the fact that you always explain the why or why not of using a particular product. I will continue to refer people to your site when they have questions regarding polymer. You have become the go-to “girl” for me. Thanks!
Gosh, you’ve got me blushing now. Thanks! I guess I was that annoying kid tugging on the teacher’s sleeve saying, “But WHY???!!!!”
Great article full of useful information! I especially like that your notions are based on first-hand experience and not just statistics and tech specifications. Thanks for the insight!
One of the things I try to do here is make things real. There’s nothing worse than reading a pamphlet full of praise about a product and not learning a single thing about how it’s used or what’s special about it. I’ll get techy if it helps, but the goal here is clarity. I’m glad you liked the article. Thanks!
Great article!
🙂 Thanks!
Hey there, I didn’t know how to reply to the article, so I just replied to one of your answered questions. I hope you get this. I read in the article that it is ok to use resin on your polymer clay and that many people are doing it, however, resin does require paint thinner and alcohol to clean up. You did mention the inconsistencies, any thoughts? Do you know if resin makes the polymer clay tacky over time? Thank You, Great article!
You can usually comment below every article. Yes, it’s okay to use resin over the top of polymer clay, and assuming the polymer is fully cured, there shouldn’t be any stickiness. The resin that most of us use (such as Envirotex Lite or ICE Resin) is an epoxy resin and while it can be thinned with alcohol, that doesn’t mean it contains any solvents that would harm baked polymer clay.
Hello,
I was thinking of making my own ornaments for my fish tank, now sealing the polymer clay I’m sure will be important. So as not to poison the fish and come out with beautiful long-lasting pieces, do you have any suggestions?
I can’t speak anything about toxicity as I’m not a toxicologist. But I do know that varnish (there is no such thing as polymer clay sealer) will peel from polymer clay if left submerged in water. Polymer clay is vinyl. And just as you would not varnish your aquarium tubing before putting it into the aquarium, you do not need to varnish your polymer clay.
I make little bowls, not for eating off but to place keys etc. Should I seal it? Thank you
No, don’t use any varnish or sealer unless you need to. Most of them peel and scratch off easily and many of them get sticky.
Well written article, thanks! Going to link to it in the polymer clay page on my website.
Thank you Megan. What is your website?
Hi ginger? How is it going? I hope this finds ya well… listen i have a question… i have a very detailed sports piece that needs to be baked… upon its exit and cool down/ chill period… i want to paint it. Itll be black and silver.. im using super sculpey and this “piece” has been on wax paper wrapped to keep dust off for like a year or two lol. I know right? Anyway… im wanting to reallllllllly make sure this black and silver has metal flake… what do i use? This is the beige clay that comes in the greenish color and white box.. i also have a can of spray glitter with multi colored flakes that i want to use over top of whatever i can paint it with. I just dont know what to use so i havent baked it yet. Should i call super sculpey? Im certain it will indefinitely be “saleable” when its completed. Thanks so much. L8r.
Hmm…a couple of things come to mind. First off, the spray glitter is a no-go. Never use a spray with polymer clay. Most of them get sticky right away. There are very few that will work on polymer clay. As for the right paints to use, just use acrylic paint. There are many brands of metallic acrylic paint. Most will work fine, so just find one that has the best shimmer and flake effect. Have you seen my article on metallic paints? I like using Viva Decor’s Precious Metal Colors and recommend it highly. But the silver color has a particularly small particle size and looks more like pure silver than a true metal-flake effect. I have had good results with the Dazzling Metallics by Deco Art. But before you paint your piece, please do a test with your materials on some baked scrap clay. Once in a while, some acrylic paints will remain sticky on polymer clay. I’m not sure why it happens, but it’s always better to check first. Good luck!
Thank you for this! You mentioned about using Polymer Clay more for outdoor projects and this is why I was interested in your article. I am making a tree mobile and was wondering about any form of sealant. Now I an see that I don’t need to. I made an ornament which hangs from the porch at my front door about 6 years ago and it’s still fine so my tree mobile will be fine too. Thanks again 🙂
Some years ago I made some ornamental bird houses for outside. At the time I think I was using Future. If not Future than Varathane. After some time the colors did fade from the sun. Just want you to know that.
Thanks Robin. Good to know 🙂
I thought I did mention that it can happen (or did I just mean to? I’m getting old.) But yes, some people report that come colors do fade. Which makes sense, really. Direct sunlight can be really hard on things. There are sealers with UV protections (Golden Polymer Varnish with UVLS is one) but of course I wonder about the weather-ability of the varnish itself, too. Thanks for mentioning it, though. It can most certainly be a factor.
The clay should be fine, especially if it’s not in direct sunlight, which can fade to various degrees.
Also, I guess I should have mentioned that I’m in the middle of the desert with a blazing sun.
Hi, great article! About the varnishes… So I have used Varathane and I agree that it’s one of the best! But unfortunately my local store no longer sells it and well I can’t find it anywhere. But I recently found another polyurethane from another brand called Old Masters. Do you know if that works?
I don’t know about that specific brand. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. A lot of people report good results with various polyurethane brands, in general. The best thing is to try it.
I use good resin and it works beautifully – when it works. The problem is the pulling away which it does erratically all over the pieces – even right in the middle of a piece. It looks more and more to me like some of the oils in the polyclay might be causing the problem but I have been unable to find out from the company if this could be an issue.
I have done some pieces that had future on the piece in the first place and they have a better success rate so I am thinking I need to SEAL the pieces??
What is your opinion and advice. And what would you recommend for the sealer?
Resin pulls away and beads up as it cures. This is because it contracts as part of the curing process. The more strongly “doming” a resin is, the more likely it will do this. You could try putting a sealer on the surface. I’m not sure it would help. As for which one, the key is to find one that works. 😉 Obviously, choose one that performs well with polymer clay.
Comments are closed.