Sooner or later when working with polymer clay you’ll need to glue things together. You might have already baked something when you want to add more design elements. Or you might need to add a bail to a pendant. Or perhaps you want to glue earring posts onto some neat little polymer cabochons. Or crystals to a design. What next? What’s the best glue for polymer clay?
I’ve been asking experienced clayers this question for a long time and I’ve received hundreds of responses. I’ve checked out glue websites. I’ve read glue package labels. I wish I could say that I’ve tested all these options. In some ways, I have, through sheer experience (and failure) with many of the products and strategies listed. But to do a side-by-side comparison of dozens of glues on several brands of polymer clay and then evaluate their durability over years would be quite the logistical nightmare. So in this case I just compiled what I’ve learned from all of you and will summarize here. I hope you find it helpful.
What’s the Best Glue for Polymer Clay?
- To bond uncured polymer clay to another piece, it’s best to use liquid clay or other bakeable glue such as Kato Poly Paste or Sculpey Bake and Bond.
- To bond two pieces of cured polymer clay that will not be baked again, use a flexible superglue such as Loctite Gel Control, Zap-a-Gap, or Gorilla Glue GEL Superglue.
- 2-part epoxy is another good glue for use with polymer clay. It can become brittle with age and pop off.
- To bond metal to polymer clay, it’s best to bake the metal into the clay. Glue will not be reliable for this bond over time.
- E6000 is highly recommended by others, but it often does not properly set on polymer clay or becomes brittle with age. I think there are better alternatives.
- To bond polymer clay to wood, paper, or fabric, use a strong white or PVA glue such as Weldbond.
- There is no perfect glue for all uses. Polymer clay is plastic and can be flexible, making a durable bond challenging.
There Is No Perfect Glue for Polymer Clay
I would love to be able say, “Buy this glue, it’s perfect for all your polymer clay projects!” But I can’t. No one glue or gluing strategy is good for all situations. Every glue has its fans. And every glue has just as many people complaining that it failed.
I’ll talk about specific situations later, but the most common scenario that people want help with is the problem of gluing cured polymer clay to metal, such as when you glue a bail to a pendant. This is a very difficult bond to make. Some glues don’t cure fully when used on polymer clay, or they degrade the clay and make it sticky. So a glue that works fantastic on another material doesn’t necessarily work great on polymer clay. Also, polymer clay is flexible and metal isn’t. So while a rigid glue like super glue works great on metal, it’s notorious for popping right off of polymer the minute the piece is subjected to any stress.
The best solution for gluing polymer clay to metal is to use a physical bond, not an adhesive bond. In other words, you can’t rely on a glue. For the most secure attachment, you need to find a way to embed the metal into the clay itself, so the clay is physically holding onto the metal. (More on this further down.) But first, I’ll talk about the glues and other products you can use to bond polymer clay.
Gluing Polymer Clay to Metal or Glass
As I said above, using an adhesive to bond baked polymer clay to metal can be quite frustrating. Many people have found that the bond will fail within a few years and the metal will pop right off. Even when a glue works wonderfully for other applications, you’ll find it quite challenging to get a good long-term bond of baked polymer clay to metal or glass.
Always Prepare the Surface
No matter what glue you use, it’s always best to prepare the surface. Always use alcohol or acetone to remove any surface oils from the baked polymer clay and the metal piece. Make sure the clay is lightly textured, so the glue has something to hold onto. And know that gluing anything to baked polymer that has surface treatments (sealer, mica powder, paints) just will not work. Any glue will bond to the surface treatment, not the baked polymer clay, leading to a very weak bond.
Super Glues
Super Glue is a brand name (originally) but has now come to mean a class of glue made from cyanoacrylate. You might see this called “CA” in some groups and forums. CA is a fantastic chemical that can, believe it or not, act as a glue or even a sealer and surface for polymer clay. My pen from Toni Ransfield has a CA finish on it, in fact.
CA is crystal clear, cures almost instantly (in seconds), and is notorious for gluing your fingers together. The most common brands of CA, the ones in those little tubes that end up being single-use because the cap glues itself on, are great for bonding ceramic, metal, and glass. But it’s a very brittle glue and doesn’t work well for anything that will flex, such as plastic or rubber. So when used to glue a metal bail to a polymer clay pendant, the bond will eventually fail given enough time and wear.
There are nicer grades of CA glue. There are some that have a flexible gel component to them, so they’re not quite as runny when applied, and tend to hold up better with polymer clay. A product known as Loctite Gel had many, many positive votes from my readers. Another excellent superglue gel is Gorilla Glue Superglue Gel.
Another favorite glue with polymer clay artists is one called Zap-a-Gap, and from what I can tell it’s also a gel-forumulated CA glue.
In general, cyanoacrylate glue cannot be baked because the bond will deteriorate with heat. But Lisa Pavelka’s Poly Bonder is a cyanoacrylate glue that IS formulated to have a strong bond even when baked up to 300°F (150°C).
E6000
When someone on a polymer clay on group or forum asks about the best glue for polymer clay, the most commonly recommended product is E6000. It is a clear gel-like glue that you squeeze out of a tube. It’s a superior glue for jewelry-making, in general, and does a fine job of gluing stone cabochons into a metal bezel, for instance. So most crafters have it on hand and are already familiar with it. But when used on polymer clay, it doesn’t seem to perform nearly as well. I have found that it takes a long time to cure, if it does at all, and the bond can easily be pulled apart a month later. That’s my experience. But other people report that the glue cures nicely but then has the same trouble as the CA glues…it is brittle and the bond will pop apart at a later date. If you’re having good luck with E6000, then great. But don’t feel badly if you don’t.
E6000 does have a strong solvent component and is pretty noxious to breathe. While it doesn’t degrade polymer clay, it can give you a headache so make sure you use good ventilation with this one. Know that you cannot bake E6000, the bond will degrade with heat. Also, the shelf life, once opened, of a tube of E6000 seems to be pretty short. If it’s rubbery and gummy coming out of the tube, toss it and buy a new tube.
G-S Hypo Cement
I used to love G-S Hypo Cement. It is a solvent-based glue very similar to E6000, but it comes in a tiny tube with a needle-tip applicator. It’s a wonderful glue for putting a pinpoint of glue on beading thread knots, tiny bits of metal, and when gluing jewelry. But the last several tubes have disappointed me greatly. For one thing, the needle tip seems to come out of the tube. And it behaves in just the way that E6000 does…it fails to cure and stays goopy for a long time.
(Note: It does occur to me that the formulation of polymer clay has changed, and perhaps some brands and some colors have something in the clay that causes the glues to fail to cure. This is just a guess, but it might explain the wide variation in results. I swear, this glue used to work and now it doesn’t.)
Urethane Glues
You might have used Urethane glues such as Gorilla Glue original. (Gorilla Glue Gel is a superglue.) In general, they expand and foam while curing, making them messy and frustrating to use. But there is a really nice urethane glue called Liquid Fusion. It comes in a bottle, is about the same consistency as honey, has a mild fresh odor, is non-toxic, and dries clear and glossy in about 2-4 hours. Liquid Fusion doesn’t get foamy like Gorilla Glue. In fact, you can use Liquid Fusion as a resin substitute to make a thick clear coat on polymer clay. This dries hard, clear, and durable. I think it holds great promise and would like to explore it further. Let me know in the comments if you’ve used this glue. It does, however, take at least 24 hours to cure.
Epoxy Glues
Epoxies are a general class of adhesives and coatings where you combine equal parts of two resins to create an activated product that hardens within seconds to hours, depending on the formulation. You probably have tubes of epoxy glue in your garage or workshop as it’s an excellent all-around glue for bonding all sorts of things. The simplest epoxy glues are those little tubes, that look like super glue, that you mix together with a toothpick and apply to your project. Epoxy glues are often packaged in a double syringe form that dispenses equal amounts of each resin component. Epoxy glues actually work very well with polymer clay. They bond well and hold tight. But I DO have bond failures with this glue. Perhaps some of the higher quality epoxy glues will work better, such as this plastic-specific epoxy, another one called Devcon, and a highly recommended glue called Epoxy 330.
By the way, you might wonder if Epoxy glue is related to Epoxy resin such as Envirotex Lite. Yes, it is. It’s the very same thing. The difference is the “open time” or the time that the material is workable before the bond starts to set. Epoxy glues can be used as a clear coating, but because their open time is short, there’s not a lot of time for bubbles to rise to the surface and for the surface to self-level as with a coating epoxy resin.
PVA Glues
PVA is short for poly-vinyl acetate, and PVA glue is just white glue. Like Elmer’s Glue-All. Now Elmer’s is a pretty basic glue and not particularly strong or water-resistant (which jewelry needs to be). But there are stronger PVA glues. My favorite is one called Weldbond. I first used it for gluing glass mosaic tiles onto a glass mirror. It works great for that, and it even holds up in the weather. But it’s also a good glue for polymer clay, IF you can get it to stick to the clay without peeling. I haven’t done a lot of work with this, but I have had a couple of people say that Weldbond works great with polymer clay. Your mileage may vary, of course. The beauty of Weldbond is that it’s non-toxic. This is a material that needs to be explored further in the future.
PVA glue is also a nice glue to seal paper boxes and forms if you’re going to cover them with polymer clay. Doing this makes the paper non-porous and gives a surface the clay will bond to easily. It’s also nice when gluing polymer clay to glass. By the way, you can bake PVA glue at polymer clay curing temperatures. Another well-known brand of PVA glue in the polymer clay community is Sobo Glue. Aleene’s Tacky Glue is another well-known PVA glue.
Glue Crystals or Stones to Polymer Clay
When you want to include crystals, gems, or stones in your polymer clay creations, just push them directly into the raw clay, then bake. After baking, you can lift the edge of the stone or gem and it will pop right out. Use your glue of choice and glue it back in, then it will stay permanently. Because the “seat” for the gem is perfectly matching the shape of the gem, the bond will be good with almost any glue. If the foil backing of the gem peels off when you do that, just glue a new gem back into the hole.
Glue Polymer Clay to Polymer Clay
Perhaps you’ve underbaked a project and a piece has broken off and you need to re-attach and bond two sections of cured polymer clay. Or maybe you want to attach some raw clay to an already baked project. The best solution is always to use a baked bond. There are several materials that are essentially made of the “goop” or base of polymer clay, that can be used to “glue” two pieces together, creating a very strong and stable bond. You do need to rebake the project to cure the “glue”. Since the bond doesn’t happen until the project is baked, you will likely need to support the weight of the two pieces, holding them together in some way, until you can bake the project. What are these materials? You likely have them already.
Liquid Polymer Clay
There are four brands of liquid polymer clay: Translucent Liquid Sculpey, Kato Liquid Polyclay, Fimo Liquid, and PVClay Gel. All are a thin, slippery-feeling, honey-textured liquid that are essentially the same thing as polymer clay but without the fillers, binders, and pigments. All of these brands bake nearly clear and work well to bond raw clay together, to bond raw clay to baked clay, and can be used to “glue” baked clay together. Because liquid clay can be a runny, though, you’ll get a better results with the next options if you’re needing to bond baked clay to baked clay. Liquid polymer clay can be used for many more applications, though. Gluing is just one many, many uses.
Sculpey Bake and Bond
Sculpey Bake and Bond is quite similar to Translucent Liquid Sculpey but is a bit thicker and more opaque. It’s designed to be exclusively used as a bonding agent and doesn’t work as well in other liquid clay applications.
Kato PolyPaste
Kato Poly Paste is a thick paste made from the same basic materials as the liquid clays, but in the form of a thick paste. It will not run, does not dry out, and will cure by baking. It cures without color, though not completely clear. The big advantage to Poly Paste is that it stays exactly where you put it.
Genesis Thick Medium
(NOTE: Sadly, the entire line of Genesis products is no longer being manufactured. I’ve left this info in place for archival reference.) The Genesis line of heat set paints and mediums are made of heat-cured (thermosetting) materials very similar to and completely compatible with polymer clay. This line of products is a favorite of polymer and doll artists worldwide. The Genesis Thick Medium seems to be the same product as Genesis Thick Medium – Extender (as far as I can tell, anyway). Thinner than the Kato Poly Paste, and having more of a creamy consistency sort of like mayonnaise, this medium comes highly recommended as being excellent to glue cured clay to cured clay, such as when you attach two halves of a hollow piece together. But remember, like all Genesis products, it must be baked to cure.
By the way, Genesis also works well to bond metal to clay.
Creating a Physical Bond
As I discussed above, when you glue metal to polymer clay, the bond is likely to be weak. So the best solution is to create a physical bond where the polymer clay itself holds the piece securely. If you want to use a metal bail on a pendant, don’t rely on glue to hold the bail on. Use the polymer clay to surround or cover part of the bail so that it is physically holding the bail. This way it’s far less likely to come off.
This works for barrettes, pin backs, earring posts, glue-on bails, and making polymer settings for glass or stone gems. If you plan ahead, you can make it part of the design. When you add a little tab of clay over a glue-on bail it is a perfect place to put a signature stamp, the year, or a decorative cane slice. I even have used this method for securely attaching button backs to polymer clay buttons.
Email is the best way
to get updates
You will LOVE getting this email, which is packed full of polymer clay goodness. About once a week.
183 thoughts on “What’s the Best Glue for Polymer Clay?”
Hi Ginger! I have run into an issue. I was so excited to finish a piece, I accidently sealed it with duraclear polyurethane varnish before adding the other polymer pieces to it! What glue would be best for me to attach polymer clay to duraclear varnish?
You can use the same glue you’d use normally. However, be aware that your bond will only be as strong as the bond of the varnish to the clay. You might, instead, want to remove the varnish in that area. You can use some sandpaper or a Q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol to do that.
Hello! I just finished making and baking a Premo Sculpey dragon’s tail that I want to attach to a polystyrene model kit. I just found out that even baked sculpey can soften polystyrene over time. Is there something I can coat the model surface with so that I can glue the tail onto it? And if so, what would be the best glue to use? MANY thanks for your help!
I don’t have good info on that, unfortunately. My gut says go with something like Weldbond or perhaps a urethane glue like Liquid Fusion or Gorilla glue original. I’m not sure about the baked clay softening the styrene. I can see where it could happen, but I don’t know the details on the likelihood or how to prevent it.
Hello! I have a big question! I work with polymer clay on a ceramic cup. I want to ask when do I glue the figurine to the cup – before baking or after baking? For now I have glued the figure AFTER baking with epoxy glue, but not all the figures come off easily from the cup to be glued again .. and I’m terribly confused already 🙁 Thank you !!!
You should use glue AFTER baking. But that’s only if they fall off easily. If you’re struggling to get them off, they’ll probably stay there. Another factor is how you create your design. Small pieces pop off easily, but large pieces that “hug” the mug or wrap about the mug will stay much better and won’t need to be popped off.
I have used Pan Pastels on earrings and baked them at recommended 275 degrees for 50 minutes. I now want to add polymer clay elements to the earrings.
Is it possible to use super glue to attach raw polymer clay and bake it to polymer clay that has Pan Pastels already baked on?
In other words, 1)can super glue be baked and, if so,
2)will it adhere raw polymer to a resist like Pan Pastels on baked clay?
Superglue shouldn’t be baked. If you’re going to be baking again, I’d use liquid clay or bake and bond.
Hello,
I just started making coasters and am wondering what would be best for adhering baked Sculpey III to cork. It sounds from this like a PVA glue would work. I have seen suggestions for hot glue in some places. Do you have any thoughts on that?
Thank you so much,
Danielle
Update, hot glue leaves a significant gap between the polymer clay and the cork and does not adhere well. Sigh.
Correct. Hot glue is often recommended by websites that specialize in “crafts”. But as you found, it doesn’t work well. 2-part epoxy works pretty well.
I’ve used this with great results. Cork shelf liner.
Hi I just wanted to ask, I’ve seen certain youtubers use epoxy glue to bond metal together for the skeletons of their clay creations, mind you this is before baking and the clay is still raw (the clay usually covers the skeleton so the glue is not exposed to the air). Is epoxy glue safe for baking with polymer clay? and if so, which is the safest brand to use, one that is the least toxic and resistant to the heat of an oven.
I think the manufacturer of the epoxy glue would be the best one to consult. I’m not sure and I’d sure be reluctant to weigh in on it.
Great article! 🙂 What type of glue would you recommend for attaching polymer clay to a magnet? Any ideas are appreciated!
It’s a tricky bond to get any hard, inflexible object to bond well to polymer clay. The best solution is to press a “dummy” magnet in place, down into the clay. Bake it. Then pop it out after baking and use any good glue to glue a new magnet in place.
It depends on the type of magnet, if they can be baked with polymer clay, so you don’t need a “dummy”. Type N neodymium magnets permanently lose some of their magnetization from 80°C (176°F), tapes and foils from 85°C (185°F), ferrite magnets only from 250°C (482°F).
Source (in German): https://www.supermagnete.ch/faq/Wie-heiss-duerfen-Magnete-werden
I find parchment paper is outstanding— just lay some over the surface you are working on- spilled glue, etc. and you simply throw out the paper when done .
Hi! I tried attaching the posts to my clay earring backs before the initial bake. I thought that they would be perfect and spent so much time ensuring my shape stayed in tact. On the unbaked clay I put a tiny drop of gorilla superglue, then the earring post, then covered with a thin layer of clay. I baked in the same oven at the same temperature as I always do and within minutes my oven was smoking and my entire batch was burned I’ve never burned any before, so do you know what might have gone wrong based on your experience?! I have seen that it is OK to put superglue in the over and it’s OK to put the metal posts in the oven…..so I don’t know why it all burned. 4 hrs of work wasted any advice will be greatly appreciated!
Oh no. How disappointing! The problem, 100%, is that your oven spiked and got too hot. The glue and the posts were just a coincidence. Neither will cause the burning and smoking. It sounds like you need to tweak your baking setup. I do have some articles on baking that might be helpful, and I do recommend the inexpensive tutorial that I have on Baking and Curing Polymer Clay. Good luck!
Hi Ginger, How are you? Thank you for this article. I was just curious if you had any information on how to adhere polymer clay into a bezel setting for earrings and pendants? Thanks in advance Bec
Create the item in the bezel. Bake. After baking, pop it out. Then glue it in.
Hi Ginger. Related question 🙂 What glue would you recommend in this case? I did glue some polymer clay cabochons into metal cabochon “holders” with simple gel super glue and they didn’t come off. But when i read about “nothing glues polymer clay to metal” I wonder, if I should use something else – but what …?
Super glue usually works well in this case. As well as anything. Gluing to a cabochon bezel usually works really well, however, because there is stability from the lip of the bezel.
Hi Ginger. I was originally using E6000 to attach earring posts, but after reading this and other articles on your website, I have been embedding the posts in the clay. However, they still seems to break off easily.
I’m thinking it might be a baking issue. I have just purchased an oven thermometer on Amazon, so that might help.
But maybe I am getting something wrong other than temperature. My process has been: 1. Create flat-backed earring and bake at 250 for 30 min. 2. Put a bit of bake-and-bond, place post, cover with another layer of clay. 3. Bake again at 250 for another 30 min.
After trying this and finding the posts still broke off easily, I have been putting the earrings back in the oven for another 30-60 min again at 250, but I think that I am still getting something wrong.
I’m going to go re-read your article on baking and patiently await my oven thermometer.
-Ciera
As a general rule of thumb I bake all my earrings for a full hour at 275. I had read in other places to bake for shorter but always found them to be weak and break easy. I would try baking for longer for sure! After baking I do use glue to adhere my posts and allow the glue to dry for about 2 days (E6000). I have not had any issues yet but I do worry about longevity.
Ciera: you are baking at too low a temp. If your piece doesn’t reach the temp at which the clay will cure, it doesn’t matter how long you bake it. For Premo or Souffle, the piece needs to reach at least 275F, but I can tell you from long experience that baking close to 300F is not too hot. With Kato, you can go even hotter: up to 350F according to the manufacturer. It works best to preheat your oven before adding your piece. However, when figuring curing time, you need to be sure to allow enough extra time for the piece to get up to temp. Without seeing your design, I don’t know if this would work for you, but I use UV-cure resin to attach things like bails and posts to my work if they haven’t been built into the clay. I’ve tried many different types of glue — including all the ones suggested here — and none provide good adhesion.
What about using UV resin all around your craft to attach metal to polymer clay?
That can work. Depends totally on the shape and specifics, though.
Hi! Would it still be strong if you were to bake the clay, add the metal backing on by covering it with fresh clay, and then bake again? Like another poster, I am worried about the shape being ruined and I would like to cover part of the metal backing. Would this be as strong?
Yes, in fact this is the best way to do it in that situation.
Pingback: Carnivorous plant art party! - ChipInHead.com
What would you recommend to glue fimo to plastic such as baubles?
Thank you for your advice.
There is a special locktite 406 glue for harmless plastics. Improved with primer 770.
Try it, it will surprise you.
I repair acetate eye glasses using this glue. and it is amazing – i’ve used every type of glue out there over the years (so it would seem anyways), experimenting on similar materials and breaks, and locktite 406 is probably the only thing that comes close to making it a permanent repair.
I didn’t even know about the primer. buying right now!
Thanks for the post! I am making polymer clay earrings and would like to attach them to earring posts. I saw that you mentioned that metal to polymer clay is best attached by baking it into the clay, however I find that this sometimes spoils the shape of the earring I am making. Is there any glue that you advise? Or would using liquid clay to attach the metal earring post to the back of the clay work too? Thanks!
If it spoils the shape, then you’re using too much clay. You only need a small cover. The issue with using glue (or liquid clay) is that you’re gluing a metal pad to a flexible plastic earring. No glue will work long term. You have to cover the metal.
So true. I have purchased so many polymer clay earrings & nearly all have broken off at the ear stud where the glue has failed.
Does anyone happen to know how safe it is to bake an earring post in the oven? Does it leech toxins?
Earring posts should not be toxic. The heat of the oven would not change anything.
Hi. I made a sculpture out of air dry clay. I want to use polymer clay (Super Sculpy) to make some finer detailed areas. The air dry sculpture is pretty heavy and I’m afraid it won’t fit in my oven. Therefore, my plan is to use the Sculpy to make the pieces I need, bake them and then attach them to the already cured sculpture. Is there a particular glue or bonding agent you can recommend?
Your articles have been so incredibly helpful to me. Thank you so much for taking the time to write them!!!
Hi, I’ve made a polymer clay cow on a porcelain Mug & i’ve Baked it. And I want to glue it to the Mug so as not fall by time. Can u tell me plz which is the best glue for attaching baked clay to porcelain mugs? Thanks a lot
2-part epoxy.
What a great post! Thank you so much for sharing your extensive knowledge. You mentioned that Liquid Fusion could work as a resin substitute on polymer clay…Do you think their product “industrial strength spray adhesive” would work like a spray-on resin coating?
I doubt it. Most spray adhesives are intensely sticky, like contact cement, and won’t dry to a smooth coating.
I make hair bows and I want to add polymer clay sprinkles to them. I’ve seen what looks like icing on hair bows with the clay sprinkles on it. Does anyone know what that white adhesive is that’s looks like icing?
Usually, that white drippy stuff is white polymer clay mixed with enough liquid clay to make it runny.
I know someone who makes those! She told me she uses deco gel (the same kind you use for iced phone cases) and pre baked polymer clay sprinkles. Apparently it’s more flexible but I’ve never heard of anyone putting deco gel on fabric
Hi! I realize this is an old post, but I recently corresponded with the Gorilla company. They suggested their Gorilla Clear Grip (polymer to metal). Though they confessed they did not actually test it. The plus side of it is that it’s repositionable for a short time, unlike the “super” gels. Have you ever tried it?
Thanks for the so very informative site!
No, I haven’t tried it. But perhaps I need to. Thanks for the info!
I wanted to make a snowglobe using a jar with a metal lid. Do you have any suggestions on the best way to attach the polymer clay figurines to the metal lid?
Thank you for your website btw! I used many of your tips when working with polymer clay for the first time to make a gift last year. 🙂
You’ll need a glue that won’t be softened by contact with water. I think that a clear silicone sealant would work well. Make sure you embed the polymer pieces into the silicone a little bit so it comes up and over the “feet” of the polymer items. If that makes sense.
Awesome! Thank you very much!
I am totally new at clay work and really love the tips you provide! How kind of you to take the time to share so much helpful information and an added bonus—— it’s free!
I’m making clay gingerbread men ornaments as my handmade Christmas gifts this year. I accidentally forgot to add the eyelet before baking and they are too thin to attempt to drill a hole as I need to mail them in a few days and can’t risk experimenting. I’m going with plan B and going to glue a satin type 1/4 inch ribbon to the back for hanging them. I really only have Aleene’s Turbo Tacky glue as an option and would love to know if you think this would work. Will this glue permanently hold the ribbon on? Thank you for such an informative article about the glues!
No, I don’t think the glue will hold over time. If polymer clay is adequately baked, there’s no reason you can’t drill a hole. Even paper-thin polymer can be drilled (though that’s usually best punched). You can always add a patch of clay where you will drill (to reinforce the area) and bake again.
Comments are closed.